Ape index climbing height. Where Did Ape Index Come From? Ape index is a phrase that started as climbing slang, but the origins of arm span compared to height actually date back to Roman times in 15 BC. Nov 28, 2023 · What is the Ape Index? The Ape Index compares an individual's arm span to their height. Ape index, ape factor, [1] or gorilla index is slang or jargon used to describe a measure of the ratio of an individual's arm span relative to their height. Ape index formula The Ape index is calculated using the following formula: Ape index = Wingspan / Height Height and Wingspan This index is expressed as a numerical value Oct 18, 2022 · The Ape Index measures how your wing span compares to your height. A typical ratio is 1, as identified by the Roman writer, architect and engineer Vitruvius prior to 15 BC. 2). g. Your ape index is largely Apr 25, 2024 · Most climbers know their ape index, but do you know how to calculate your sloth index? And what about your snake index? Apr 25, 2024 · The Ape Index The ape index is the length of your arm span compared to your height. Jun 4, 2024 · The Ape Index is a correlation between an individual’s height and arm span. This balanced proportion is often considered neutral because there is no significant discrepancy between the length of the arms and the overall height of the May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. With this tool, you can check if your wingspan to height ratio will help you in your sports career. , +7 in/18 cm). Perfect for athletes, climbers, and fitness enthusiasts looking to optimize their training. 6 mins 73. This measurement, called the ape index, is widely used in sports science, especially in activities like rock climbing, swimming, and martial arts, where having a longer reach can offer a performance advantage. So basically if your height is 70. , 1. This is sometimes expressed as a ratio, with Da Vinci’s “Vitruvian Man” alluding to the idea that the perfect ratio is one, which is to say that arm span and height should be equal. Jul 14, 2023 · Rock climbers call their arm span-to-height ratio their ape index. But does it matter? Click to find out. “A taller climber at the taller end of a normal spectrum requires significantly less Feb 23, 2020 · This compounds the benefit, as longer legs provide a larger base, from which those lengthier arms can then be leveraged. Learn why and how it affects climbing performance. Whilst the norm is an index of 1, the same as your height. 05) or as a difference (e. Try our free online calculator now! The Ape Index Calculator is a handy online tool designed to help you measure the difference between your arm span and your height. 8inches/180cm then your ape index difference is 0 and your ape index ratio is 1. The Ape Ratio, also known as the Ape Index or wingspan to height ratio, is a numerical measure that compares an individual's wingspan (the distance from fingertip to fingertip when arms are fully extended) to their height. It can be expressed as a ratio (e. So in theory, that sounds kind of true, but does it really offer you an advantage in climbing? Regularly, the average ape index in humans is zero, like in Leonardo’s sketch, meaning it Oct 8, 2021 · What Is the Ape Index? The ape index is a measurement of how your wingspan (aka arm span) compares to your height. How to Measure and May 9, 2025 · The ape index measures arm span (wingspan) to height, but its climbing impact is complex and often overstated; it’s more myth than a primary success determinant for any climber. Calculate your ape index with our easy-to-use Ape Index Calculator. In other words, the ape index ratio is close to 1. Discover your reach-to-height ratio and improve your climbing performance. With our calculator, you can quickly and easily find Neutral Ape Index: A neutral ape index refers to a body proportion where the length of an individual's arms, measured from fingertip to fingertip, is approximately equal to their height. Additionally, you can even compare yourself with some of the greatest athletes. Welcome to the ape index calculator! Here you will learn what the ape index is (sometimes it's called the ape ratio), how to measure your ape index, and where you can use that knowledge. . Of course, the Ape Index is a consideration here. 4″ (73. Scientific evidence is inconclusive, showing weak correlations, while anecdotal beliefs inflate its importance for ape index rock climbing. 8inches/ 180cm and your arm span is 70. May 30, 2023 · Related: Your Ape Index and 10 Other Really Super Important Measurements Another interesting finding revealed by Randall and Torr is that shorter climbers need the strongest fingers for the grade, with every reduction of 10 centimeters in height correlating to the climber needing to be 2. 5 percent stronger. “A taller climber at the taller end of a normal spectrum requires significantly less Jul 16, 2025 · The ape index climbing is a way climbers measure their wingspan relatively to their body. The concept harks back to Leonardo da Vinci's "Vitruvian Man," which suggested the ideal human proportion where the arm span equals height, a perfect ratio of 1:1. Jul 9, 2021 · How to measure your ape index and how important is it? Is it the most important factor of your climbing performance? This and more answered! Apr 27, 2025 · Using the same climbers from above, Kai Lightner’s index is +7″ (82 minus 75) while Adam Ondra is only +0. The ape index is measured because in sports like rock climbing, swimming, boxing, and basketball it’s Dec 14, 2021 · The ape index can be measured in two ways, either it is the difference or the ratio of your arm span and your height. It’s believed that most people’s wingspan is equivalent to their height, meaning most people have a neutral ape index or, put another way, an ape index ratio of 1. This is the ratio of your height/reach (index finger to index finger). It's a term well-known in climbing circles and is often brought up when discussing physical advantages in the sport. Interestingly, it’s a concept dating back to Roman times: Vitruvius, an architect, engineer, and writer, argued in 15 BC that a “well-made man” has an arm span equal to his height. Some people believe that the greater this ape index, the better climber you will be if your arm span is longer than your height. flaea athea ovdi xkojz anfd gwj udlkm fsww lxt abyualbg