Full crimp vs half crimp weight. Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. May 1, 2024 · When starting, avoid full-crimping until you have built enough strength that half-crimping feels good. . Crimp holds are divided into three different types: full crimp, half crimp, and open hand. When to Use Half crimp vs. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. Also training in a half crimp position is generally considered the most effective. Oct 15, 2021 · In the sport of rock climbing, the half crimp grip finds the happy medium between the power of the full crimp grip and the sustainability of an open hand grip. This closes the hand shape, allowing you to generate more force when crimping. Mar 16, 2005 · Im not sure where this chisel has come from i assume it means drag?) I just personally find this grip extremely weak. The full crimp is more suited for square-cut ledges with a recess for better finger traction. Half Crimp In a half crimp, the length of your fingers on the hold form a full bend in relation with the tips of your fingers resting on the edge of the hold but the thumb is placed to the side of the grip and isn’t used to apply pressure on the top. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. Jul 16, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. does the open crimp not translate well to half crimp? and which one is more important? I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. I've come to realize that this is more of a full crimp. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. How much weight are you hanging on 20mm? Has it gotten to the point where the amount of weight you need to add to achieve results is too Mar 27, 2019 · The answer is that many people (myself included) got injured once too often from full-crimping and re-trained themselves to rely more on the half-crimp. Hangboarding, also known as ‘fingerboarding,’ is the best way to train your crimp strength once you’ve developed your pulleys and tendons more. I have been holding onto all crimp holds using half crimp according to the first definition (DIP hyperextension without the thumb) but full crimp according to the second (DIP >180 degrees regardless of thumb). This distinction is hugely important because everyone says to avoid full crimping to prevent undue stress on the finger pullies. Along with managing the body weight hang with full crimp i tried the half crimp and managed to match you this time ( 10kg assistance) and then also tried drag which required 20kg of asistance. Full crimp The half crimp grip is best used for climbing along surfaces with small holds and narrow edges. I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Feb 2, 2025 · Climbers are more concerned with grip technique than adjusting body weight properly. Important Tip: Crimp holds primarily engage the fingertips, so proper finger placement is crucial. Crimping ain’t easy. May 10, 2022 · The majority of new climbers don’t see the point in full-crimping, and many ask whether they should bother to use this grip seeing as the half-crimp feels stronger and more comfortable. com Jul 13, 2021 · There are two main types of crimping in rock climbing: the full-crimp grip and half-crimp. I think the general consensus is more weight on a bigger, comfier hold is more beneficial than moving to smaller holds where the chance of injury and skin splits are higher. significantly stronger in open crimp vs half crimp, better to focus on half crimp? started max weight hangs, my open crimp on 20mm is body weight + 50% for close to 8 sec, but half crimp i can only hang with +20% ish. I always just considered the thumb wrap to be full crimp Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. Higher risk than drag positions. You can train each grip type: open-hand crimp, half-crimp, and full-crimp. Front 3 drag: Good for catching holds and using pockets. Sep 27, 2024 · To perform a full crimp, do a half crimp, then wrap the thumb on top of your index finger. Usually this is a slightly lower risk grip position to train. To reduce the risk of injury, you need to start with loads that are lighter than you’d use for training your half crimp. Aim to position your fingers on the hold so that the weight is distributed through the pads of your fingers and not the tips. Meanwhile, bolt-on holds have evolved and are now far more user-friendly and generally suited to the half-crimp than the hideous sharp edges that we used to bone down on. They both focus on putting all your force on your fingertips while bringing the palm of your hand closer to the wall for even more strength. Nov 9, 2022 · Half crimp: This is best ‘all rounder’ for training strength as it is arguably more transferrable than other positions. See full list on climbing. If you choose to train the full crimp on a hangboard, you should start with your feet on the floor and slowly put more load on your fingers (over several weeks) until a full hang is possible. vus vps kyeitr coowuy rdjb fpt ewskl ldscco iuz uncbua